WE start the walk from the village of Totternhoe, and walk through the nature reserve which comprises the Totternhoe Knolls to visit the earthworks on Castle Hill which are the remains of a late 11th or 12th C castle.

After descending we use an attractive disused rail track to reach the outskirts of Dunstable. A stiffish climb will take us up to the ridge of the Downs.

We soon pass beside the Five Knolls which which is a rare round-barrow cemetery originating in 3000BC and reused during the Roman occupation.

Following the Icknield Way we eventually arrive at the new National Trust Visitor Centre.

Dunstable Downs is renowned for the sudden emergence of its astonishing views and I have no doubt that you will want to spend time taking in the 360 degree panorama and watching launching of gliders far below or perhaps flying a kite.

The relatively short return journey enables you to put your day's efforts in perspective.

1. Start

Leave from the rear of the car park to walk across grass and up some steps. At a track turn right and, almost immediately left.

Ignore paths going to the left and continue gradually up hill passing a barrier.

Eventually the track plateaus and there is a gate with a narrow path to the left - take this to enter a small meadow.

The next part of the route requires two short but very steep descents. To avoid these, keep to the main track and rejoin the route at stage 3.

Continue to the right-hand corner and go right with the path. Ahead is Castle Hill, walk up to its triangulation pillar.

2. 0.7 miles/1.1 km

After taking in extensive the views, cross to the other side of the mound and descend carefully to turn right in front of a metal kissing gate and go downhill with a fence to the left.

Go left through the next kissing gate and descend a few steep metres and then go right along the bank and on through scrub to reach another kissing gate and go left on the main track.

Continue downhill to reach a yellow marker post on the right (if you reach a metal barrier you have gone too far!).

3. One mile/1.6km

Go sharp right at the waymarker along a fenced path. This will take you along a zigzag journey to a junction of drives.

Go right on the one which is lined by white posts, keeping forward past a metal barrier to reach a junction, just before a gate, where you go left. You arrive at a T-junction.

4. 1.6 miles/2.6km

Turn right on what is the bed of a disused railway track. You will follow this attractive section for about a mile.

Eventually you reach a farm on the left-hand side. Cross a bridge and then take a path to the right to turn left up a broader stony track.

Pass one waymarker to arrive at a second near the top of the rise.

5. 2.7 miles/4.3km

Swing right, now with a hedge on both sides. Keep following the right hand hedge for about half a mile including a right turn along the way.

When you arrive at cross-tracks, turn left to continue along another very wide grassy and hedged track.

This pleasant byway insulates you from the outskirts of Dunstable before delivering you to a main road (B489).

6. 4 miles/6.4km

Cross carefully to the right of the roundabout and follow the direction indicated on a finger-post to go up the grassy slope.

Continue left with the trees to climb even more steeply up to a gate. Once through this, continue with the Five Knolls to your left to reach the top of the rise.

Swing left to follow the ridge, now with magnificent views to the right (you can also see across Dunstable to your left).

Keep to this track as it winds its way along the ridge to the long-roofed Visitor Centre on the skyline.

7. 5.1 miles/8.1km

After leaving the Visitor Centre, walk away past the large metal air-intake directly to the edge of the Downs.

Keep going forward and you will be funnelled, by vegetation, into a narrow, quite steep path to the bottom.

When you reach the bottom, turn right and, after a few metres, left to turn right again on a more distinct path.

You are now at the very base of the Downs and will be passing the airfield which attracts so much attention from above.

Keep forward through one gate in order to arrive at a waymarker where you go left through a gate to walk along the right-hand edge of the airfield (later along this path there is also a long narrow archery field). Arrive at a road.

8. Six miles/9.6km

Cross straight over onto the very quiet Well Head Road and continue for just over mile, through the outskirts of Totternhoe to a T- junction.

9. 6.8 miles/10.9 km

Go right, cross the road past Church Green to turn left at the T-junction in front of a children's playground.

Continue along Castle Hill Road for less than a quarter of a mile to reach the brown sign which directs you to the car park.

Factfile

Starting Point/Parking: Totternhoe is best reached by taking a turning off the B489 (from the A5).

The car park is indicated by a brown sign to Totternhoe Knolls. It is a National Trust car park and picnic site but there is no charge

Distance: 7.4 miles/11.8km

Time: Four to five hours

Terrain: mainly reasonable paths but there are some steep descents (indicated in the text) and one stiff climb.

After rain the chalk can be very slippery so you need boots with good treads.

Suitability for Dogs: Excellent (remember that dogs need to be kept under control in fields where there is livestock and at times when birds are nesting)

Stiles: Four

Near: Dunstable

Refreshments: The state-of-the-art National Trust Chilterns Gateway Centre on Dunstable Downs.

Besides providing reasonably priced food and drink the centre demonstrates how environmentally responsible architects can be when they put their minds to it

Public Toilets: at the centre

Public Transport: none

Map and Grid Reference: Explorer 192 986217 (you will also need Explorer 193 to follow the whole route).